Remodeling Magazine lists “best bets” for home improvement

How the Stimulus Bill affects your window purchase decision

Double vs Triple Pane Windows

Common Window Terms

The NFRC Label - What do those numbers mean?

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). Why is it important?

What is U-Factor?

What causes condensation on windows?

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Remodeling Magazine lists “best bets” for home improvement

March 11, 2009

The most recent edition of Remodeling Magazine lists the most cost-effective home improvement projects for 2008-09.  Homeowners who implemented any of these projects found their investments pay back in improved resale value.

Additionally, Premier Window’s Premier Package window guarantees up to 30% fuel efficiency and with the government Economic Stimulus Bill, can completely pay for themselves in less than 3 years*

*based upon the purchase of 8 windows.

How the Stimulus Bill affects your window purchase decision

February 25, 2009

On February 17, 2009, President Obama signed a stimulus bill (The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009) that made some significant changes to the energy efficiency tax credits. The highlights are:

  • The tax credits that were previously effective for 2009, have been extended to 2010 as well.
  • The tax credit has been raised from 10% to 30%.
  • The tax credits that were for a specific dollar amount (ex $300 for a CAC), have been converted to 30% of the cost.
  • The maximum credit has been raised from $500 to $1500 for the two years (2009–2010). However, some improvements such as geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, and solar panels are not subject to the $1,500 maximum.
  • The $200 cap on windows has been removed.

Tax credits are now available for home improvements:

  • must be “placed in service” from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010
  • must be for taxpayers principal residence
  • maximum amount is $1,500 in 2009 & 2010 for most home improvements (geothermal heat     pumps, solar water heaters, solar panels, fuel cells, and windmills are not subject to this cap)
  • for record keeping, save your receipts and the Manufacturer Certification Statement, OR for windows, you can save the ENERGY STAR label from your new windows
  • improvements made in 2009 will be claimed on your 2009 taxes (filed by April 15, 2010) — use IRS Tax Form 5695 (2009 version) — it will be available late 2009 or early 2010

Premier Window has the window that meets your energy-savings and stimulus bill requirements…introducing the Model 6500 “Premier Package”

Double vs Triple Pane Windows

January 31, 2009


A guide to choosing between double and triple pane windows.

Windows are a significant expense in any home, so the thought of having to replace them fills many people with dread. While the variety of choices is certainly an asset to consumers, it can also feel like a minefield as you carefully wade through the decisions that you need to make.

The argument of double pane versus triple pane windows is pretty basic, and one of the first that you need to make. While on the surface, it would seem that triple is better, that is not necessarily so. Each type of window has strengths and weaknesses; your job is to find the best for your situation.

The best way to start is with a basic explanation of how a window works. Both double and triple pane windows use a type of inert gas sandwiched between layers of glass. Double pane windows consist of two layers of glass with one layer of gas in the middle. Triple pane windows consist of three layers of glass, the exterior glass, a layer of gas, the middle glass, another layer of gas, and the interior layer glass. The gas acts as insulation to slow the transfer of heat or cold through the window.

Double pane windows are relatively lightweight, relatively efficient, and moderately priced. Triple pane windows are extremely efficient, but also extremely heavy and extremely expensive. Depending on what type of weather you have, you will have to decide what works best for you. In most temperate areas, double pane glass will make the most sense. If you live in an area with long, cold or windy winters, you will probably want to look at triple pane windows.

There are a variety of choices even within the double and triple pane glass windows. If you are looking at triple pane glass because you live in an extremely warm or sunny climate and want to keep your cool air in your house, you do have another option. In a situation like this you should spend some time looking at double pane glass with UV coating. The double pane glass will provide a good insulating factor, and the UV coating will shut the sun’s heat out of your house. Many times these windows can work just as well if not better than a triple pane window.

As you can see, in most cases double pane windows will be the window of choice. There will, of course, be exceptions to this rule, but generally, when you line up the cost, convenience and energy savings, modern double pane windows will be the winner. Triple pane windows do have their place, or they would not continue to be produced. If you live in an extreme environment it would be advisable to get advice from your local power company for their recommendations. You could also spend some time talking with your neighbors, and find out if they are happy with their windows. Many times they will be the first to tell you the pros and cons of their situation, and they have no financial gain in your decision. The investment in new windows is too pricey to be taken without adequate research.

Credit: Essortment.com - Information and advice you want to know…

Common Window Terms

January 7, 2009

Here are some basic replacement window concepts you might want to consider when researching windows.

Balance System – This is the mechanism in a window that provides force to the bottom half of the window so it is easy to move it up and down. Older windows have a weight on a line that is hidden in the cavity of the adjacent wall. Modern systems use either constant force spiral springs or very small block and tackle arrangements.

Desiccant – Is a drying agent that is placed inside the panes of glass in a double or triple pane window, (IGU) to absorb any moisture that may get between the glass panes.
To read more on desiccant

Foam Filled – Window frames are generally hollow in nature. This is because they need to be a certain size in order to be thick enough to go from the outside of the wall to and beyond the inside of the wall. If the window frame was a solid mass it would make the window very heavy, and it would have worse insulating properties than if it was hollow with air. There are windows however that are sold, and touted, as having greater insulating properties because the frames are filled with foam.

Heat Gain – The amount of heat gained from both direct sunlight and absorbed heat. On many windows there is an effort to reduce heat gain, particularly from sun light.

Insulation – When old windows are removed and new ones installed generally there will be areas that will have voids that will need to be insulated. This is especially true if the windows were of the outdated variety that had counter weights in the walls. That cavity should be insulated.

Lead Paint – All paints manufactured prior to 1978 had lead as one of the ingredients. It was found that the lead in paints posed a safety hazard to the inhabitants of a dwelling as the paint aged, cracked, peeled and became accessible to ingestion particularly with children. The opening and closing of window sashes, covered with lead paint would created a fine dust that posed a particular threat.

Low-E – This is a metallic coating used to reflect heat (energy) back to its source. It is applied as a thin coat on the panes of glass.

Replacement Windows – This is a catch all phrase for a product that is designed to be used when old windows are removed from a building or house, and a new window unit is installed.

Roll Form Aluminum – There are two types of aluminum used in window manufacturing; roll formed and extruded. Roll form tends to be thinner in nature and is finished prior to the bending process in manufacturing.

Sash – This the term for the part that holds the window, for example in a double hung window there is a top window (sash) and a bottom.

Triple Pane – Most replacement windows today are double paned windows which means there are two independent sections of glass kept apart at approximately 5/8 of an inch. When you have a triple pane window, that means there are three sections of glass.

Wrapped - Is the application and process of bending custom painted aluminum to fit around the outside sills and casing. This is a feature that you should inquire about and not just assume it is part of the installation.

The NFRC Label - What do those numbers mean?

December 8, 2008

The National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) energy performance label can help you determine how well a product will perform the functions of helping to cool your building in the summer, warm your building in the winter, keep out wind, and resist condensation. By using the information contained on the label, consumers can reliably compare one product with another, and make informed decisions about the windows, doors, and skylights they buy.

NFRC adopted a new energy performance label in 2005. It lists the manufacturer, describes the product, provides a source for additional information, and includes ratings for one or more energy performance characteristics.

NOTE: All energy performance values on the label represent the rating of windows/doors as whole systems (glazing and frame).

The information contained on the label is also available in the NFRC’s online directory.

U-Factor

U-factor measures how well a product prevents heat from escaping. The rate of heat loss is indicated in terms of the U-factor (U-value) of a window assembly. U-Factor ratings generally fall between 0.20 and 1.20. The insulating value is indicated by the R-value which is the inverse of the U-value. The lower the U-value, the greater a window’s resistance to heat flow and the better its insulating value.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures how well a product blocks heat caused by sunlight. The SHGC is the fraction of incident solar radiation admitted through a window (both directly transmitted and absorbed) and subsequently released inward. SHGC is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The lower a window’s solar heat gain coefficient, the less solar heat it transmits in the house.

Visible Transmittance

Visible Transmittance (VT) measures how much light comes through a product. The visible transmittance is an optical property that indicates the amount of visible light transmitted. VT is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The higher the VT, the more light is transmitted.

Air Leakage*

Air Leakage (AL) is indicated by an air leakage rating expressed as the equivalent cubic feet of air passing through a square foot of window area (cfm/sq ft). Heat loss and gain occur by infiltration through cracks in the window assembly. The lower the AL, the less air will pass through cracks in the window assembly.

Condensation Resistance*

Condensation Resistance (CR) measures the ability of a product to resist the formation of condensation on the interior surface of that product. The higher the CR rating, the better that product is at resisting condensation formation. While this rating cannot predict condensation, it can provide a credible method of comparing the potential of various products for condensation formation. CR is expressed as a number between 0 and 100.

* This rating is optional and manufacturers can choose not to include it.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). Why is it important?

December 8, 2008

The SHGC is the fraction of incident solar radiation admitted through a window, both admitted through a window, both directly transmitted, and absorbed and subsequently released inward. SHGC is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The lower a window’s solar heat gain coefficient, the less solar heat it transmits.

Northern Climate: To reduce heating, select the highest SHGC you can find (usually 0.30-0.60 for the U-factor ranges required in colder climates) so that winter solar gains can offset a portion of the heating energy need. If cooling is a significant concern, select windows with a SHGC less than 0.55. Use RESFEN to understand trade-offs.

North/Central Climate: If you have significant air conditioning costs or summer overheating problems, look for SHGC values of 0.40 or less. If you have moderate air conditioning requirements, select windows with a SHGC of 0.55 or less. While windows with lower SHGC values reduce summer cooling and overheating, they also reduce free winter solar heat gain. Use a computer program such as RESFEN to understand heating and cooling trade-offs.

South/Central Climate: If you have moderate air conditioning requirements, select windows with a SHGC of 0.55 or less. While windows with lower SHGC values reduce summer cooling and overheating, they also reduce free winter solar heat gain. Use a computer program such as RESFEN to understand heating and cooling trade-offs.

Southern Climate: A low SHGC is the most important window property in warm climates. Select windows with a SHGC less than 0.40.

What is U-Factor?

December 8, 2008

The U-factor measures how well a product prevents heat from escaping. The rate of heat loss is indicated in terms of the U-factor of a window assembly. U-factor ratings generally fall between 0.20 and 1.20.

In the United States, the U-factor is usually expressed in Btu/h ft² F. The metric equivalent unit is W/m² K.

The insulating value is indicated by the R-value, which is the inverse of the U-factor. The lower the U-factor, the greater a window’s resistance to heat flow and the better its insulating value. The U-factor is included in the energy performance rating (label) offered by the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC).

What causes condensation on windows?

October 23, 2008

What causes condensation on windows?
Whenever there is excess humidity in a home, it manifests itself in the form of condensation on the coldest area of a wall, which is normally the windows. The warmer the air, the more moisture it will retain, so when air in your home comes in contact with the colder glass surface, it is subsequently cooled and moisture is released in the form of condensation on the glass.

Do windows cause condensation?
No, condensation on windows is not the fault of the window. However, by replacing drafty windows and doors or installing a new roof or siding, you are reducing air flow in your home and making it tighter. Tighter homes actually retain more humidity.

Where on a window does condensation normally form and why?

Condensation often forms at the meeting rail and at the bottom of the lower sash on the interior of the glass. This is because when warm air cools, it falls down across the interior surface of the window at the same time the air’s temperature is falling. The air contacts the horizontal surface of the meeting rail, which acts like a dam, slowing the air’s rate of fall and creating the perfect opportunity for the trapped water vapor to escape and form on the meeting rail’s surface. The air then rolls over the edge of the meeting rail and again gains speed until it encounters the lower handle of the sash. At this point, the water vapor again makes its exit and lies at the bottom of the sash.

Can I reduce the condensation on my windows?
Yes. In order to reduce condensation, humidity must be controlled and air movement must be generated. As the exterior temperature drops, the humidity level needs to decrease if condensation is to be controlled.

What steps can I take to reduce humidity in my home?
The two main things you can do are to control sources of moisture and increase ventilation. To decrease or control excess humidity and condensation:
* Use exhaust fans in your kitchen, laundry and bathrooms.
* Vent gas burners, clothes dryers, etc. to the outdoors.
* Shut off furnace humidifiers and other humidifying devices in your home.
* Be sure that the ventilating louvers in your attic, basement or crawl spaces are open and amply sized.
* Open fireplace dampers to allow an escape route for moisture-laden air.
* Air out your house a few minutes each day.

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